Survivor’s Guilt in the Mountains Survivor’s Guilt in the Mountains
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Alex Lowe and Conrad Anker. Photo by Chris Noble
Experiences, Fiction

Survivor’s Guilt in the Mountains

Nick Paumgarten
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time 14 minutes

Alpinists are intimately familiar with death and grief. A therapist thinks he can address the unique needs of these élite athletes.

In mountain towns, an early-autumn snowstorm is a nuisance and a lure. It runs some people out of the high country but draws others in. During the first week of October, 2017, a foot or more of snow fell in the peaks south of Bozeman, Montana. Before dawn on the fifth, a group set off from a parking lot in Hyalite Canyon, a popular outdoor playground, just outside town. The man at the head of the group was spooked by the new snow. To minimize exposure to avalanches, he made sure that everyone ascended with caution, keeping to the ridgelines and bare patches, away from the loaded gullies. This was Conrad Anker, the famous American alpinist. It is often said that there are old climbers and there are bold climbers, but there are no old bold climbers. So far, Anker, at fifty-four, was an exception.

There was nothing intrepid, really, about this particular outing. It was basically a hike up a minor mountain formerly known as Peak 10031 (for its unremarkable altitude of 10,031 feet), which had been rechristened in 2005 in honor of the late climber and Bozeman idol Alex Lowe. The group was headed to Alex Lowe Peak to spread Alex Lowe’s ashes. Anker recognized that it would be cosmically stupid to kick off an avalanche on the way.

Lowe died in 1999, at the age of forty, during an ascent of Shishapangma, in the Himalayas. At the time, he was considered by many to be the world’s preëminent alpinist, and, even in a pursuit where untimely death is almost routine, his came as a shock. He was game for anything yet prudent, in his way—more dervish than daredevil. Still, snow is water, and it aims downhill. On Shishapangma, a massive avalanche entombed two climbers, Lowe and the cameraman David Bridges, under tons of frozen debris. A third, Anker, who’d fled in another direction, got flattened and engulfed by the blast, but after the air cleared he found himself stumbling through an altered landscape, alive and alone.

Lowe’s wife, Jennifer,

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The Himalayan Super Express The Himalayan Super Express
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Photo by Kalle Kortelainen/Unsplash
Experiences

The Himalayan Super Express

The Story of Nirmal Purja
Paulina Wilk

Even the Chinese regime had to give in when faced with the power of one Nepalese man’s dreams. Beaming with optimism, he was the only person allowed to climb Shishapangma in Tibet. It was the last mountain was the last to surrender to his determination, and he conquered all the fourteen eight-thousanders of the world—in record time, at that.

At first, the conditions were far from perfect until suddenly, the weather turned gorgeous. Through the early hours of Wednesday, May 22, 2019, the weather cleared around Everest: a gentle wind, light-falling snow, clear skies. Everyone wanted to climb the behemouth at once. Everyone meaning the two-hundred climbers holding Nepalese permits, and the more than one hundred guides and Sherpas who were assisting them. They had all been waiting for more than a dozen days for such a chance, and to many, it was their life’s dream—one that cost them dearly. Nobody was going to give up, and there was nobody on Everest to control such a large crowd driven by a dream this powerful. Out of fifty-nine connecting officers (appointed by the Nepalese government for obligatory positions in order to control the traffic and situation on the mountain), only five arrived at the base. None of them wanted to go any higher. They were unacclimatized government officials who struggled with heights and had only theoretical skills at their disposal. And they were the ones who were supposed to stop some groups from going up, as well as the ones to clear the traffic on the vertical route.

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